1.1 : What is the difference between a water wave and a tsunami?

4.1 : A wave with a wavelength of 50 m is incident on a vertical wall. What is the reflection coefficient?

Solution: The boundary conditions are: (1) the kinematic free surface boundary condition, (2) the dynamic free surface boundary condition, and (3) the bottom boundary condition.

5.2 : A wave with a wave height of 2 m and a wavelength of 50 m is running up on a beach with a slope of 1:10. What is the run-up height?

3.1 : A wave with a wavelength of 100 m and a wave height of 2 m is traveling in water with a depth of 10 m. What is the wave speed?

5.1 : A wave with a wave height of 5 m and a wavelength of 100 m is approaching a beach with a slope of 1:20. What is the breaking wave height?